Bottom plate is now fully wired.
Each arm is connected with 2 short screw and 2 long ones, the short ones go through one 5mm spacer and the long ones point upwards with a 5mm on the bottom and another on the top with an m3 nut to hold them in place.
This means that the bottom plate is a sub assembly and can be taken off the quad to be worked on if needs be.
At the front is a small 6 way black connector and there is a small plug in wire harness to connect to the flight controller on the 2nd plate.
Just waiting for some more 5mm spacers to finish of the last arm and then the bottom can be mated to the top and the flight controller wired before first testing.
A few bits and pieces done today on the quad but I’m running out of bits I can do until my micro power distribution board and other bits and pieces including some liquid electrical tape.
I’ve removed the motor connection wires from 2 of the ESC’s and shortened the motor wires and soldered these direct to the ESC pads, I then tested which way this combination of wires made the motors turn by connecting the signal lead up to channel 3, throttle, on my 6 channel flysky receiver.
Both ESC’s have been wired up the same so that’s the 2 anti colockwise ones done and after I tested them I then removed the gnd and positive leads from the servo connector and de-soldered them from the PCB to save a bit of weight and make the wiring tidier.
Ok a bit more progress made on the mini H.
I returned home from holiday to a small box containing motors, esc’s and props.
I’ve rebuilt the frame using some nylon spacers so that there is room between the bottom 2 plates for a micro power distribution board.
The esc will be attached to the arms with heat shrink and the motor leads will be soldered directly to the esc pads to reduce the amount of wire.
At the moment I’m using my witespy quads Multi Pro 2 flight controller and it’s been secured in place with some foam pads but in the future I intend to use one of their Flip32+ FC’s
The good thing about this FC is that it has plenty of connections available and as you can see in the pic I have my Bluetooth module installed so that I can configure MultiWii from my android phone, I’ve temporarily powered the FC using one of my esc hooked up to a flight battery and it all connected ok.
A few months ago I got started in the hobby of RC multi rotors and specifically quad copters.
My first quad was based on a 3d printed design downloaded from thingiverse and modified through several iterations.
This quad is big and heavy and gives me about 5 minutes flight time from a 2200mah lipo pack so I decided to go for something smaller and more manoeuvrable with the ability to easily add FPV gear to it.
To meet these goals I’ve decided to build a small 250 H quad based on a carbon fibre frame from Banggood so let’s get to it.
Frame – Banggood ZMR250 carbon fibre alternative Banggood ZMR250 glass fibre
Motors, Esc’s & Props – This combo package from myrcmart.com but any similar sized motor, esc etc… can be used
RC Receiver – Any suitable 6 channel receiver that matches your TX
Battery – 1400mah + I’m using these from hobbyking
Flight Controller – At the moment I’m going to use the FC from my other quad which is a Multiwii Pro 2.0 from witespyquads but I intend to eventually put one of their Flip 32+ FC’s on this quad which is equivalent to a Full Naze 32
That’s all for now hopefully the frame will be delivered this week and I can get that build and take some pictures whilst waiting for the other parts to be delivered.
Frame arrived today.
Well I tried to use the built in upgrader to update my install but that didn’t work so I ran softalicious and tried a fresh install but that failed due to their being an existing installation ok fine I’ll delete the folders and run it again as I’d already exported an xml file of my posts.
That worked however I had obviously already deleted the uploads and media folders so any posts with embedded pictures are now broken and anything I’d uploaded is gone.
Total OBD Car Diagnostics from totalcardiagnostics.com/toad
Total OBD rubbish more like, I purchased this in October as it was priced at $97 due to “Price is temporarily lowered because we’re doing a price marketing test during October 2013. Get TOAD at $100 off while this lasts.”
Well guess what? Yes that’s right it’s currently:
“Price is temporarily lowered because we’re doing a price marketing test during November 2013. Get TOAD at $100 off while this lasts. ”
It’s a bit like a permanent closing down sale at DFS.
I also purchased their USB OBD interface because it uses original firmware and is faster than the Chinese copies well guess what again yes it’s just a Chinese copy drop shipped from dx.com I have to say the interface does seem to work but cost 3 times what I could have bought it direct from DX for myself.
I am still waiting for the DVD to be delivered so only time will tell if the software supplied is worth it or if that is a load of tosh as well.
Well the software DVD that was eventually delivered just contained copies of hacked and cracked software and the main piece of software they claim to develop is called ScanMaster ELM which they provide a cracker for.
This piece of software is very good but is developed by wgsoft.de
I opened a paypal dispute with Total OBD and got a full refund as they are selling pirated software and drop shipping rubbish hardware, good marketing scam.
I just found this on http://community.office365.com/en-us/forums/613/t/54315.aspx but wanted to re-produce it hear for safe keeping.
To allow another user to open additional mailboxes in O365 they need the relevant permission.
Open a powershell window and connect to your tenant with admin credentials.
This example command allows John to open Jerry’s mailbox:
Add-MailboxPermission [email protected] -User [email protected] -AccessRights FullAccess
If you also want the 3rd part to be able to send as this user you need to also issue this command:
Add-RecipientPermission [email protected] -AccessRights SendAs -Trustee [email protected]
Coming soon supplies for quad copter and multi rotor builders.
3D Printers Frames, Parts, Esc’s and more
My vintage nerf gatling gun stopped working with just a hiss of air when the trigger was pulled.
I suspected it had been dropped by the kids and something internally had broken.
It was easy enough to take apart a dozen or so screws and that was it. The attachment to the back of the main piston had broken off. The blue part in this picture is a fish tank air hose part I used for the repair.
I cut the end off the air hose was cut off as the old broken attachment was stuck inside. I warmed the hose in some boiling water to soften it before pushing it on to the new connector.
Next I drilled out the hole in the back of the piston to 5mm which was big enough to make the new connector a push fit. I secured it with some hot glue.
Job done gun works just like it did before.